• Just as in our own lives, a healthy birth and the death of a child are the most joyous and tragic events possible, so it seems, they are for dolphins. On our voyages collecting data, we have been privileged to witness incredible, intimate moments in the dolphin lifecycle. A couple of weeks ago, while we […]

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  • I’ve been doing a surprising amount of thinking about the Artic as I sit here sweating in Costa Rica. There are many ways that the two environments, which on the surface seem so different – the cold, dry, sparse Arctic and the hot, humid, abundant rainforest – encompass startling similarities. Some of the similarities are simple like mildewed […]

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  • This place is alive with sound. Indeed, I heard its music before I ever set foot on land. As the boat carried me an hour through the mangroves along the Sierpe River and across the width of Drake Bay to our cove, we hit a wall of sound so dense that it reached us while […]

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  • When I started this blog, I thought it was going to be only about my trip to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. A journey into vast wilderness that I hoped would turn me from a Greenhorn into a seasoned adventurer. A trip that was supposed to satisfy my wanderlust, after which I would return ready […]

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  • I just got back from a week at the cabin that I have gone to for the past darn near twenty years.  It is my little piece of heaven, the reward that motivates me.  When things get tough throughout the year, I remind myself that no matter what’s happening, whatever is stressing me out or […]

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  • In preparing for the trip and doing all the research on the Refuge, I went out of my way not to have too many preconceived notions of what to expect. I didn’t go in with a check list of all the animals and birds I wanted to see, I was prepared for weather ranging from […]

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  • They say, of course, that a picture is worth a thousand words. And, gosh darn it, I came home from this adventure with 1,564 photos. Let’s see…that’s 1,564,000 words. More words than War and Peace, Les Miserables, and Atlas Shrugged combined! Which is precisely the danger of point-and-shoot cameras: you point and shoot them. “What a […]

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  • It’s funny what turned out to really be valuable on my trip. After all the planning and training and classes, the single thing that was the biggest help was something I learned in rock climbing.  No, it wasn’t the Figure Eight knot, which did come in handy, and god knows we used carabiners all the […]

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  • Dateline: Bellingham The one thing I had convinced myself not to be disappointed about was not seeing the Aurora Borealis. It was going to be too light in the Arctic to see them, so I had not allowed myself to hope; I would have to return in winter. But last night on the ferry from Haines, […]

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  • Yep, that’s me – fully decked out in rain gear, life vest, rubber gloves and boots, and a bunch of warm layers – and having a blast!  I got the front row seat on the raft.  Well, actually it was the back row seat, but since you spend most of the time floating with the […]

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